When we first thought about going to Switzerland and traveling by train, we were definitely decided to take the Glacier Express. The most prestigious panoramic train of the Continent – but not the only one, take a look here the other Swiss panoramic trains.
Living the Dream
The route between Zermatt and St Moritz, or vice-versa, lasts about 8 hours through scenic landscapes. The train moves slowly, so you can take as many pictures as you want. There are some “professional” tourists that leave their camera in non-stop mode to capture every movement. They attach it to the window. How could I never thought about this before?
Beautiful Villages Along the Way
Along the way, the train stops in many stations, where you can get off, if you want. In other words, you don’t have to make the entire journey. But if you want to do so, you can have lunch on board. We haven’t had the oportunity to try their service, because we got off at the second stop, but it seems to be well organized and a pleasant way to enjoy the journey.
Fairytale Landscapes
If you have bought a Swiss Pass or a Single Ticket, you have to reserve a seat (with an extra cost as mentioned here) to assure a place. Or you can buy a Glacier ticket. Either to reserve a seat or to buy the ticket you must do it directly on their website. It’s higly recommended to do it well in advance, because it’s easily sold out. So, what are you waiting for?
When I started to plan our trip to Switzerland, I considered doing it by car to enjoy its outstanding highways. But then I read a lot and realized that the Swiss Railway System (SBB) is one of the best in the world, if not definitely the best one.
Wonderful Landscapes between Luzern and Interlaken
At the beginning it was a bit confusing because I’m not used to trains, but when I completely understood it, made complete sense. It’s not the same as French trains, where you buy a ticket for a specific route, with a specific time and seat. In Switzerland you buy a route and you can get inside any train and choose any seat of that particular route.
But at first you have to specify if you are going to take a train every day or only some days. And if you are going to travel long or short routes. That being said, now it’s time to decide if you are buying a Swiss Travel Pass or single tickets. I researched a lot before deciding. In my opinion, the Swiss Pass is only worth it if you are traveling a lot between places and almost every day. Otherwise – if you are planning to stay in the same place for a few days – it will be better to buy single tickets. But why? What’s the difference between them?
The Swiss Travel Pass is a 3 to 15 day pass, consecutives or not, which gives you free access to several means of transportation on the day of use; it doesn’t matter where you came from or where you are going to. The Single Ticket is issued with a preset itinerary, from point A to B, doesn’t matter which train you will get. This one may be cheaper, but you are more limited. The other one may be more expensive, but you are free to use it as much as you want, the way you want, on the day of use, for 24 hours.
We finally decided to by Single Tickets, as we would be staying for a few days in each destination and we didn’t need to get many trains, basically we were traveling from one point to another. I think it’s well worth it to buy the Half Fare Card since you have up to a 50% discount in almost every kind of public transportation. It’s valid for one month.
Enjoying the view from the train
It’s important to mention that, even if you by a Single Ticket, you are able to travel from the origin to the destination whenever you want, as long as it’s on the same day indicated on the ticket. In other words, if you want, you can get off in the middle of the way to have lunch and then take the next train, as long as you don’t change the destination and it doesn’t exceed the same day indicated. It was what we did in Luzern, where we got off to have lunch in the city, while traveling from Zurich to Wengen.
Snowy Villages
🇬🇧 The most important things to know before you go:
➡ Before traveling, download the SBB app, so you can check the trains schedule and available seats;
➡ There are several trains crossing all over Switzerland, so it’s very easy to move around with them, just check the app.
➡ You can choose any train you want on the day of use, but If you buy a discounted single ticket you will have to take the exact trains you have chosen.
➡ If you are traveling with luggages and ski equipment, you don’t have to carry them. The SBB offers door-to-door facilites. Check it out here.
➡ Whether you have bought a single ticket or the Swiss Pass, you don’t have to reserve a seat, unless mentioned with a letter R (bellow picture).
➡ If you want to get an specific train, like the Glacier Express, it’s higly recommended that you reserve a seat, which incurs an extra cost. Curious about the Glacier Express? Then check it out here and… have a nice trip!
Our first ski resort in Switzerland was a place that I had never heard about before. When I first started to research across Instagram and travel blogs about where to stay along the the way from Zurich to Zermatt, I saw some magical pictures of small charming villages in the Jungfrau Region: Lauterbrunnen, Wengen, Murren, Grindelwald…
Wengen from the Wengernalpbahn mountain train
All of them seemed to have come out of a fairytale. Cosy, with that alpine charm, full of small wooden chalets. Some of them don’t allow cars, maintaining even more the genuine romantic charm of the old winter villages.
Living the Dream
We chose Wengen because I read that it was one of the most charming villages of that region with direct access to the pistes (ski in/out). Once we were there for skiing, this seemed to be a perfect choice. And I can confirm with no doubt it really was.
Wengen by dusk
We stayed at a small and cosy hotel called Alpenrose. Our room had a valley view and I couldn’t be happier. All wooden made, small and simple but so charming. We could ski in and out if we want to. It is located in a quiet area but also close to the center, where the stores and the central station are.
The train station is the only way to arrive in the village and it’s from there that you can go up to the mountain. They use vintage trains so you feel like you are travelling back in time. Such a romantic experience. I felt like I was in a movie set.
Wengen Rail StationWengernalpbahn – the vintage trains
Another hotel that I can say is as charming as was mine is the Schoenegg. It’s very well located, close to the restaurants and bars of this cosy village.
Wengen Village
Either in winter or summer, Wengen and the whole Jungfrau Region is a must for those who want to have a genuine swiss village experience.
Nosso primeiro ski resort da Suíça foi um lugar que nunca havia ouvido falar. Quando comecei a pesquisar no Instagram e blogs de viagem sobre lugares para ficar no caminho entre Zurique e Zermatt, eu vi algumas fotos mágicas de vilas pequenas e charmosas na Região de Jungfrau: Lauterbrunnen, Wengen, Murren, Grindelwald…
Wengen vista do trem
Todas elas parecem ter saído direto de um conto de fadas. Aconchegantes, repletas de pequenos chalets de madeira que completam aquele charme alpino. Algumas não permitem a entrada de carros, mantendo ainda mais a originalidade das antigas vilas de inverno.
Vivendo um sonho
Entre todas elas, escolhemos Wengen. Eu havia lido que era uma das mais charmosas vilas da região e teria acesso direto às pistas de ski. Uma vez que estávamos lá para esquiar, pareceu ser a escolha perfeita. E eu posso afirmar, sem sombra de dúvidas, que realmente foi.
Wengen ao anoitecer
Ficamos hospedados num hotel pequeno e aconchegante chamado Alpenrose. Nosso quarto tinha vista da montanha e eu não poderia ter ficado mais feliz. Feito todo em madeira, pequeno e simples, mas muito charmoso. Nós conseguíamos chegar esquiando até o hotel se quiséssemos. Ele fica localizado numa área tranquila, mas próxima ao centrinho, aonde as lojas e a estação central estão.
A estação de trem é o único meio de chegar à cidade e de lá você pode pegar um trem e ir ao topo da montanha. Eles utilizam trens vintage nessas rotas, então você tem a sensação de que está viajando no tempo. Uma experiência super romântica e autêntica, me senti num cenário de filme.
Estação de trem nevada em WengenWengernalpbahn – os trens vintage
Outra dica de hotel simples, mas charmoso é o Schoenegg. É super bem localizado, no centro da aconchegante vila, próximo a restaurantes e bares.
Centrinho de Wengen
Tanto no inverno quanto no verão, Wengen e toda a Região de Jungfrau é um daqueles lugares para quem procura uma experiência autêntica na Suíça.
Zurique é uma cidade vibrante e ao mesmo tempo elegante. Você pode ter todo tipo de experiência numa cidade como essa, desde a mais simples até a mais requintada.
Começando pelo clássico. Se você quiser ter uma experiência super genuína e luxuosa, vá ao legendário Kronenhalle, o lugar de encontro de famosos artistas e escritores, aonde você pode jantar rodeado por telas originais de Picasso e Chagall. Experimente o famoso Filé a Chateaubriand, um clássico delicioso. Para um jantar memorável.
Decoração Clássica do KronenhalleFilet au Chateaubriand
Se você é do tipo que adora um italiano e está pensando num almoço ou jantar descontraído, experimente a Cantineta Antinori, um clássico italiano de Florença com vinhos a preços honestos, super bem localizado nas ruelas de Old Town, próximo a famosa Banhofstrasse e seus Bancos de Investimentos.
Italiano bem localizado nas ruelas de Old TownAmbiente Romântico do Cantineta Antinori
Pensando naquele chocolate quente para tomar no meio da tarde, curtindo a vida passar sem pressa, então o melhor lugar pra isso é na cafeteria Barchetta, do luxuoso Storchen Hotel. Para se sentir como se estivesse em Veneza, curtindo a vista debruçado sobre o rio.
Veneza ou Zurique?Chocolate quente delicioso no Hotel Storchen
Agora se você é fã de um happy hour e busca algo elegante e descontraído – com a melhor vista de Zurique – não deixe de conferir o Jules Verne Panorama Bar. Chegue por volta das 17hrs – antes do final do expediente na região – pois depois disso o lugar fica tomado por executivos recém saídos do trabalho e será difícil conseguir uma mesa. Peça uma champagne e aprecie o visual 360o da cidade. Tim-tim!
Zurique vista de cimaBela entardecer visto do Jules Verne Panorama Bar
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Se você é como eu e tem uma queda por fondue de queijo – especialmente quando você está na Suíça – então saiba que você pode experimentar um fondue delicioso e com preço acessível em Zurique, em um lugar charmoso chamado Swiss Chuchi. Não é exatamente sobre o lugar em si – é simples, mas acolhedor – é sobre o fondue, que é simplesmente uma delícia e você pode escolher entre uma grande variedade de sabores, incluindo um com champanhe e trufas. Delicioso, não!
Entrada Clássica
Ambiente Romantico
Informal e Aconchegante
Finalmente, mas não menos importante, se você quiser saborear algo diferente, fora do comum, uma comida realmente deliciosa criada por uma Chef premiada, então você precisa ir ao Bauernschaenke Restaurant, uma das cozinhas mais inventivas de Zurique, bem localizado no meio da Old Town. Reservas são altamente recomendadas.
Zurich is a vibrant while elegant city. You can have any kind of experience in a city like this, from an informal and simple hot chocolate to a memorable dinner.
Starting from the classics. If you to want have a genuine and upscale experience, then head to the legendary Kronenhalle, the meeting place for famous artists and writers, where you can have dinner surrounded by Picasso and Chagall original artworks. Try the famous Filet au Chateaubriand, a delicious classic. For an epic dinner.
Filet au Chateaubriand
If you love Italian food and you are looking for an informal lunch or dinner, try the Italian Cantineta Antinori, a classic Italian from Firenze, with affordable wine list and perfect location in the middle of the Old Town, next to the Banhofstrasse and its Investment Banks.
Classic Italian located in Old TownRomantic Setting of Cantineta AntinoriDelicious Italian Food
You are thinking about a delicious hot chocolate and wondering where you could have it while enjoying beautiful views? So you must head to the Storchen Hotel at their Barchetta Caffe, where you can taste a hot chocolate seated in warm and cozy chairs enjoying river view. You will ask yourself if you are in Zurich or Venice.
Venice or Zurich?Delicious Hot Chocolate at Storchen Hotel
For a lively and elegant happy hour, with Zurich’s best view, take a look at the Jules Verne Panorama Bar. Try to get there around 5pm to ensure you can get a free table. After this time the place is taken by several business man and woman who work nearby. Ask for a glass of champagne and enjoy the 360o panorama. Cheers!
360o Panorama
If you are like me and have a crush on cheese fondue – specially when you are in Switzerland – than you can experience a delicious and affordable fondue in Zurich in a charming place called Swiss Chuchi. It’s not about the place – it’s simple but cozy – but the fondue is absolutely delicious and you choose between a wide variety of flavors, including one with champagne and truffles. Delicious, no!?
Classic Entrance of Swiss Chuchi RestaurantRomantic SettingInformal and cozy fondue restaurant in the middle of Old Town
At last, but not least, if you want to taste something different, out of the ordinary, a really delicious food created by an award winning Chef, then you must go to the Bauernschaenke Restaurant, one of the most inventive kitchens of Zurich well located in the middle of Old Town. Reservations are highly recommended.
We started our Swiss itinerary in Zurich, in my opinion the most charming and enchanting “big” Swiss city. I’d already been to Geneva and spent a couple of hours in Bern, but Zurich has totally stolen my heart with its beautiful streets and elegant nightlife spots.
Zurich from Jules Verne Panorama Bar
It’s so vibrant, but quiet at the same time, it’s clean and organized, historical and modern. It’s a destination for those looking for good restaurants and nice boutiques, a run around a beautiful lake, having a good time in the many elegant bars of the city.
Beautiful Boutiques
The city’s highlight, in my opinion, is the Old Town, with its narrow streets, plenty of small boutiques and charming bistrôs. In this area you can find the Central Train Station – the Stadelhofen – and the famous Bahnhostrasse, the main station street, with its eletric silent trams, worldwide well-known magazines and the main Swiss banks.
Zurich Old Town charming streets
I had read some criticism about the city before going there, that it was too comercial and nothing touristic, more business oriented. In fact you can see that it can be true, but it’s exactly why it is so clean and well-preserved, the restaurants and hotels are so classy, people are well-dressed and happy hour bars are so elegant. For me it’s everything I want to see in a “big” city.
Banhofstrasse
Big in quotes because this beautiful city has just 400 thousand souls, but it’s quite huge for the Swiss concept of small villages. Try to stay next to the Lake and the Old Town to best be amazed by this city, with its history and richness blended with the well-known European charm.
Recently I checked off an item that was high on my bucket list: spend winter holidays in Switzerland. Fairytale snowy villages, beautiful lakes, panoramic trains that go up and down the mountains, hot chocolate and cheese fondue. Yummy! All of this came out of my imagination directly to reality upon arrival at the airport.
Winter Wonderland between Luzern and InterlakenSwiss Capital – Bern
We imagined that Switzerland was beautiful and well-organized. More than that, this we were astonished by a country with friendly people and an efficiency that even the Brits would be jealous of.
Charming LuzernDelicious Cheese Fondue
Beyond the marvellous swiss cheese fondue – btw, truly unforgettable – the country has a delicious diversity of cuisine, including wines and cheeses, and don’t forgetting the marvelous and famous chocolates. We had delicious food in this trip, for sure it was one of the highlights.
Scenic Routes
We were floored with oustanding landscapes, worthy of a movie, like the train route between Luzern and Interlaken, about two hours of pure delight, truly iconic landscapes.
Fairytale Villages – Adelboden
It’s important to mention all the warmth we received, from waiters to taxi drivers, the Swiss are really friendly and do everything to make you feel welcome.
Classical Zurich
But the cherry on the cake, for me, is the spectacular and efficient Swiss rail system, the SBB. I spent some time trying to understand it, but once you get it, you can see is truly fantastic. I will explain better in a separated post.
Amazing Landscapes – Lake Brienz
So our complete itinerary was exactly this: Zurich, Luzern, Wengen (Jungfrau Region), Zermatt, Adelboden, Bern and… airport! Between these places we only used trains, including the famous Glacier Express. I will talk about every place in detail. Hope you like it and feel inspired!
Começamos nosso roteiro pela Suíça por Zurique, na minha opinião a mais charmosa e encantadora “grande” cidade do país. Já estive em Genebra e também passei por Bern, a capital, mas Zurique arrebatou meu coração com suas belas ruas e elegantes opções de vida noturna.
Zurique vista do Jules Verne Panorama Bar
Vibrante, mas também silenciosa, limpa e organizada, histórica e ao mesmo tempo moderna. É um destino muito procurado por quem quer curtir bons restaurantes e lojas, se exercitar à beira do lago ou curtir um happy hour nos elegantes bares da cidade.
Charmosas Vitrines de Zurique
Para mim o ponto alto da cidade é o Centro Histórico, com suas ruelas charmosas, cheias de pequenas boutiques e bistrôs aconchegantes. Alí nessa região fica também a Estação Central – chamada Stadelhofen – e a famosa Bahnhofstrasse, a rua da estação, com seus trams elétricos silenciosos para lá e para cá, lojas mundialmente conhecidas e os principais bancos suíços.
Ruelas Charmosas da Old Town
Li alguma crítica sobre a cidade antes de ir, de que seria muito comercial e nada turística, voltada à executivos de bancos. De fato essa parte existe, mas vem daí também o alto nível dos restaurantes e hotéis, a limpeza das ruas, os bares elegantes no happy hour, pessoas super bem vestidas nas ruas. Para mim, é tudo que quero ver numa cidade “grande”.
Banhofstrasse
Grande entre aspas, porque essa cidade linda tem apenas 400mil habitantes, mas para o padrão suíço de pequenas cidades ela é sem dúvida uma das maiores e mais vibrantes. Procure se hospedar perto do lago e do Centro Histórico e espere para viver uma cidade surpreendente, com toda a sua história e riqueza misturados ao conhecido charme europeu.
Recentemente realizei um sonho que estava no topo da minha lista: passar férias de inverno na Suíça. Vilas nevadas de contos de fada, lagos belíssimos, trens panorâmicos que sobem e descem montanhas pitorescas, chocolate quente e fondue de queijo. Hmmmm 😋 Tudo isso saiu da minha imaginação direto para a realidade assim que pousamos nesse belo país.
Paisagens de sonho entre Lucerna e Interlaken
Já imaginávamos que a Suíça era bela e organizada, mas realmente fomos surpreendidos por um país com um povo acolhedor e com uma eficiência de dar inveja até aos britânicos.
Capital da Suíça – BernCharmosa Lucerna
Muito além do maravilhoso fondue de queijo suíço – aliás, é inesquecível mesmo! – o país tem uma diversidade deliciosa de culinária, incluindo vinhos e queijos, sem esquecer dos famosos chocolates. Comemos muito bem, sem dúvida foi um dos pontos alto da viagem.
Delicioso fondue de queijo, um clássico suíço!
Nos maravilhamos por paisagens belissimas, dignas de filme, como a rota de trem entre Lucerna e Interlaken, duas horas do mais puro deleite, paisagens realmente emblemáticas.
Lagos e paisagens de cinema
Vale ressaltar o carinho com que fomos tratados pela grande maioria dos suíços, de garçons a taxistas, todos realmente muito simpáticos e fazendo de tudo para serem compreendidos, ainda que não fosse na mesma língua deles – em muitas regiões só falavam alemão e pouco inglês.
Vilas de conto de fadas – Adelboden
Mas a cereja do bolo, na minha opinião, fica a cargo da tremenda eficiência do sistema de ferrovias suíço, o SBB. Demorei a entender a sistemática, mas uma vez compreendida você percebe que é simplesmente fantástica. Falarei mais sobre isso num post à parte.
Zurique Clássica
Nosso roteiro completo ficou assim: Zurich, Lucerna, Wengen (Região de Jungfrau), Zermatt, Adelboden, Bern e… aeroporto! Entre esses lugares andamos somente de trem, incluindo o famoso Glacier Express. Vou falar detalhadamente de cada um em breve. Espero que gostem e sirva de inspiração para o seu roteiro.
